4 Essential Elements For Beretta Products
Just about a simple little survey of sorts. We currently possess the M9 (Beretta 92FS 9mm) as the standard issue side arm for many military MOS's.
This article is strictly geared towards qualified, professional gunsmiths who are both accredited and insured as well as have sufficient experience to perform work on semi-automatic pistols. Also caveat: this article might be more geared towards accurizing for "bullseye" or NRA conventional pistol than for IPSC, IDPA, USPSA, etc.
Accurizing the Beretta M9 (or 92FS, which is the model number given to the version that is available to the civilian population in general) is something that competitive shooters are already doing for a while basically, but how to do it's a relatively unknown art.
Luckily, it's not too much different from what you would have to do to make just about any gun accurate. You can find some options that can also make the gun last a lot longer in case you are a competitive shooter and need the frame (made of aluminum) to last for 10,000 rounds or even more.
The most challenging a component of the whole process will be the trigger job itself, which allows the shooter to fire the gun accurately without disturbing the sight alignment. Most military-grade guns "out of the box" have a relatively heavy "single action" trigger pull of between 5 and 8 pounds for safety reasons (i.e. to prevent accidentally discharging the gun). For many marksmanship competitions, trigger pull has to be at least 2.5 to 3 pounds. For "Service Pistol" competitions, the rule is 4 pounds minimum. In case you are not a professional gunsmith: take the gun to a gunsmith, let him/her handle that a component of the work. You will be happier with the result for many different reasons, not the very least of which will be the fact that doing a trigger job on a Beretta is a serious pain. It entails several iterations of taking the sear out of the frame and re-installing it to test pull weight, and getting the sear in and check out the post right here of the gun is difficult even when you have done it a hundred times. So do yourself a big favor and just tell your gunsmith what your minimum trigger pull needs to be.
In case you are a professional, qualified and insured: the trigger pull weight on a Beretta results from a variety of the condition of the sear surface and hammer hook surface, plus spring condition.
Sear and hammer surfaces. The sear has a return spring which has to be carefully removed and re-installed correctly whenever work is performed on the sear. Take pictures prior to removal to guarantee you can replace it the way it really is supposed to be. The sear surface has to be polished (buffing wheel or rotary tool) as well as a relief angle cut (much like what you should do when doing sear work on a 1911) but don't modify the sear angle itself, or perhaps the gun could be unsafe. The hammer hooks need to be polished with a stone. Apply pressure-sensitive marking material (Dykem or any other layout fluid), re-assemble everything and test everything. Disassemble and observe the bearing surfaces of the sear and hammer hooks to make sure there is consistent sear contact throughout the entire width of both the hammer hooks.